I am aware not everyone is as gung-ho as I am to make a day trip to a cemetery, but bear with me here. Chicago is home to some world-class cemeteries, among them Rosehill, Oak Woods, Montrose, Bohemian National and Graceland. I've tried to find Graceland in the past just by meandering around, but was misinformed as to its whereabouts and ended up visiting another cemetery instead (St. Boniface, right up Clark Street, another interesting but not as notable cemetery in the area). This time I planned out my trip and tried to prepare by visiting the website and reading up on some of the prominent people buried there (among them Daniel Burnham- architect of many famous Chicago landmarks, city planner and head architect of the 1893 World's Columbian Exhibition).
When I arrived at Montrose and Clark, I was greeted by high brick walls extending for what seemed like miles and wondered where on Earth the entrance was…
A WORD OF WARNING!! For those of you planning to visit-- there is only ONE entrance for the cemetery… at the Southwest corner of Irving and Clark. Don’t make the mistake I made and assume there are several entrances… there are not!! It could take you all day to walk around that thing.
To get there, you can take the Irving Park bus (#80) or the Clark bus (#22). The Sheridan red line stop is nearby, or it’s a bit of a walk from the Irving Park brown line stop.
When I arrived at Montrose and Clark, I was greeted by high brick walls extending for what seemed like miles and wondered where on Earth the entrance was…
A WORD OF WARNING!! For those of you planning to visit-- there is only ONE entrance for the cemetery… at the Southwest corner of Irving and Clark. Don’t make the mistake I made and assume there are several entrances… there are not!! It could take you all day to walk around that thing.
To get there, you can take the Irving Park bus (#80) or the Clark bus (#22). The Sheridan red line stop is nearby, or it’s a bit of a walk from the Irving Park brown line stop.
I was expecting some type of grand welcome to such a prominent Chicago resting place, but when I entered, I found a tiny visitor’s center that held a few books, maps, and a few original framed drawings of monuments by their designers.
This cemetery is chock full of famous Chicagoans-- mostly architects. I’ve decided to break down my favorite final resting spots by giving out my own Graceland Cemetery Awards. Enjoy!
The 2012 Graceland Cemetery Awards
This cemetery is chock full of famous Chicagoans-- mostly architects. I’ve decided to break down my favorite final resting spots by giving out my own Graceland Cemetery Awards. Enjoy!
The 2012 Graceland Cemetery Awards
Prettiest Cross Award goes to:
John Root (architect, 1850-1891)
John Root was business partner to Daniel Burnham and one of the founders of one of the most famous architecture firm of the 19th century (Burnham & Root), as well as one of the fathers of the Chicago School style of architecture which was known for breaking architectural traditions. Despite leading the way with non-traditional architecture, he's got an uber traditional Celtic Cross marking his grave since he so admired seeing them in English cemeteries. I was excited to see this headstone since it was one of the guys I recognized from the book I’m reading, “Devil in the White City”. Had he not died young, he would have helped Daniel Burnham organize the Columbian Expedition of 1893.
Most Striking Statuary Award goes to:
Victor Lawson (newspaper publisher, 1850-1925)
Most Striking Statuary Award goes to:
Victor Lawson (newspaper publisher, 1850-1925)
Holy Cow! A Medieval style knight towers over the gravesite of Victor Lawson, publisher of the Chicago Daily News, which was among the first newspapers to send reporters around the world to cover stories. His grave remains unmarked except for a quote “Above all things truth beareth away the victory.” Very fitting for a newspaperman, I thought.
Strangest Mausoleum award goes to:
Peter Schoenhofen (brewer, 1827-1893)
Strangest Mausoleum award goes to:
Peter Schoenhofen (brewer, 1827-1893)
Beer brewer Peter Schoenhofen must have been a strange cat. His mausoleum is in the form of a pyramid and is guarded by an Egyptian sphinx and ALSO… a Victorian era Angel….. Huh?!?! Kind of an unlikely pairing. Could he have decided on this combo over a couple of beers with architect Richard Schmidt? I think maybe! If you peek through the metal screen door at the front, you can see a beautiful stained glass window inside.
Most Impressive award goes to:
Potter Palmer (developer and merchant, 1826-1902)
Most Impressive award goes to:
Potter Palmer (developer and merchant, 1826-1902)
This ginormous Greek Temple sits next to a beautiful pond among the wealthiest dead families in Chicago and it belongs to the Palmer family. I can only imagine the kids of lives its inhabitants must have led. Potter Palmer was the first store owner to develop money back guarantees, merchandise on approval and attractive store displays. Needless to say, he did very well and sold his lucrative business to Marshall Field (also buried at Graceland) and later thrived in his real estate business
Creepiest Statue award goes to:
“Inez” (?)
Creepiest Statue award goes to:
“Inez” (?)
Statuary is usually my favorite thing about visiting graveyards. I’m usually in awe of the grief or hopefulness the statues evoke, however once in a while you’ll encounter an unsettling Victorian Era statue that has a worn off face, or in “Inez’s” case, a statue that is just plain creepy.
Most Voldemort-esque statue award goes to:
Dexter Graves (Hotelier, 1789-1945)
Most Voldemort-esque statue award goes to:
Dexter Graves (Hotelier, 1789-1945)
While Inez might creep you out, the unmarked headstone at Dexter Graves’ final resting place will make you want to defensively draw your wand. According the back of the statue, Dexter Graves was among the first settlers who “brought the first colony to Chicago, consisting of 13 families, arriving here July 15, 1831 from Ashtabula, Ohio, on the schooner Telegraph.” The ominous figure was created 60 years after Graves’ death in 1909 and is called “Eternal Silence”. Its unnerving appearance is exemplified by the massive amounts of bugs crawling around on its darkened face.
Most Sexist Gravesite award goes to:
Daniel Burnham (architect, Columbian exposition of 1893, Chicago Plan of 1909, 1846-1912)
Most Sexist Gravesite award goes to:
Daniel Burnham (architect, Columbian exposition of 1893, Chicago Plan of 1909, 1846-1912)
You guys… understand how excited I was to see this gravesite… the great Daniel Burnham, prominent architect and city planner! Responsible for the success of the 1893 Columbian World Exposition which put Chicago on the map, as well as the Masonic Temple (demolished), the Monadnock building, Reliance, Rookery, St Gabriel’s Church and the Union Stock Yard Gate, not to mention Burnham’s Plan of Chicago that called for the reclamation of the Lake Michigan Shoreline as a parks and public space that pretty much defined the entire city of Chicago. Add to all of that that he’s the star of the book I’m currently reading, “Devil in the White City”, and his grave is located on a wooded isle in the middle of the pond at Graceland! My heart was skipping beats as I crossed the small bridge, and even the fish in the pond jumped with excitement. I found it charming that Mr. Burnham’s family (wife, sons, daughters in law) all joined him on the isle and were marked on simple, uncarved rocks with placards, one for each couple. I was turned off though when I found his only daughter’s grave plaque was hiding under a lilac bush to the side, not sitting up on a rock like her brothers’ and fathers. Was it because she was single, or because she was the only daughter?! Why couldn’t somebody scrounge up a bloody rock for the poor girl so her plaque didn’t have to grovel at the feet of her male, married relatives? It was disheartening, to say the least. Upon getting home, I did a bit of research and discovered she was married, twice, but there was little else known about her. So where were the rest of her family, and why was she hiding under a bush? Was she really burried there, or was it just a plaque so she wouldn't be left out of the family island? The world may never know.
Other gravesites of note:
Oldest Gravestone:
John Kidzie (one of the first white settlers of Chicago, 1753-1828)
Classiest Mausoleum:
Martin A. Ryerson (lumber merchant/developer, 1818-1887)
Most Understated Grave:
Louis Henri Sullivan (“Father of Chicago School of Architecture”, 1856-1924)
Nicest Resting Place Considering She Died Penniless:
Edith Rockefeller McCormick (daughter of John D. Rockefeller, wife of Cyrus McCormick’s son, 1872-1924)
Best Family Gravesite to chill at:
Marshall Field (Founder of retailing empire, 1835-1906)
Sitting on 119 acres in Northern Chicago, Graceland is a beautiful spot for a day trip. You’re not likely to be bothered by many people since most of the people who are buried there are so long gone, their grandkids are likely dead. I only encountered landscapers and the occasional wanderer. I was talking to my friend Kirsten about planning this visit and she said she thought a cemetery would be a great spot for an original date, and I’d have to agree. It’s definitely a thought provoking space, a space of beautiful old trees and rolling hills, architecture and tons of Chicago history. Consider adding Graceland to your Chicago day trip “bucket list”.
“Enjoy your life. It’s later than you think.”
- Chinese Proverb
Safe travels!
Amy
Other gravesites of note:
Oldest Gravestone:
John Kidzie (one of the first white settlers of Chicago, 1753-1828)
Classiest Mausoleum:
Martin A. Ryerson (lumber merchant/developer, 1818-1887)
Most Understated Grave:
Louis Henri Sullivan (“Father of Chicago School of Architecture”, 1856-1924)
Nicest Resting Place Considering She Died Penniless:
Edith Rockefeller McCormick (daughter of John D. Rockefeller, wife of Cyrus McCormick’s son, 1872-1924)
Best Family Gravesite to chill at:
Marshall Field (Founder of retailing empire, 1835-1906)
Sitting on 119 acres in Northern Chicago, Graceland is a beautiful spot for a day trip. You’re not likely to be bothered by many people since most of the people who are buried there are so long gone, their grandkids are likely dead. I only encountered landscapers and the occasional wanderer. I was talking to my friend Kirsten about planning this visit and she said she thought a cemetery would be a great spot for an original date, and I’d have to agree. It’s definitely a thought provoking space, a space of beautiful old trees and rolling hills, architecture and tons of Chicago history. Consider adding Graceland to your Chicago day trip “bucket list”.
“Enjoy your life. It’s later than you think.”
- Chinese Proverb
Safe travels!
Amy